Issey Miyake Black Pleated Spiral Dress, 1990s

Avant-garde designer Issey Miyake has mastered the technique of creating sculptural works of art in cloth. His innovative pattern cutting and signature use of micro pleating give his garments a unique form. As one of the earliest designers to take on this style of fashion, Miyake is held in high regard as a pioneer of these creative, out-of-this-world fashions. This iconic dress is from the late-80s/early-90s and done in a obsidian black pleated fabric.

It presents a highly dynamic and rhythmic aesthetic as the fabric is molded in a spiral that starts at the shoulders and encircles the wearer to the floor where a dramatic swoosh at the hem balances the otherwise smooth faces formed across the rest of the dress. The finely pleated fabric and the spiral stitching allows for stretch and hugs the body for a perfect fit to showcase the figure.

Mirroring the hem detail, the sleeves are designed with an intense corkscrew silhouette that add an even more exciting design element to the dress. A perfect conversation piece and stunning event gown, this vintage Miyake can be seen in the images to the left on Mary Kate Olsen for the 2013 CFDA Awards.

Size: 3 Japan

Size estimate: Medium

Shoulders: 17 inches, can stretch more

Sleeves: 28 inches straight, are meant to be scrunched up)

Bust: 3 unstretched to 44 inches stretched

Length: 47- 60 inches

Unlined, this dress simply slips over the head for easy wear. Due to the stretch, this dress is able to accommodate a range of sizes but is best suited as a medium. In excellent condition, high-quality vintage pieces like this are yours to live in and love while increasing in value every year. It’s never too soon to start collecting them, as an investment in your wardrobe—and in yourself.