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Basha Gold

1980s Jean Claude Jitrois Jewel Green Leather Dolman Sleeve Fox Fur Trimmed Coat


Jean Claude Jitrois is a curious character. Preceding his successful foray into fashion, the French Jitrois developed personal renown in the field of psychoanalysis where he held many prominent positions and worked with legends like Jacques Lacan. After the 1970s, Jitrois turned to fashion with a keen interest in designing leather garments for mainstream women.

Up to this point, leather garments had strong associations with the subcultural style of punk rock and motorcycle riders. This jewel green cutaway coat, made from deliciously pliable leather and dyed green fox fur, embodies the bold materiality and optimism of the 1980s. Oversized dolman sleeves are perfectly pleated into high shoulder seams, leaving extensive volume to drape in supple waves beneath the arm. A pouf of fox fur encases the wrist, highlighting the elegant gestures hands make when involved in engaged discussion. The triangular piecing at center back extends its style lines across to the sleeves, forming chevron-shaped seams at elbow level.

Despite the rich color of the leather and overt beauty of the jacket’s cut, the eye-gazing feature is certainly the dynamism of the fur edging, which undulates in and out from the expansive front lapels to a curved sweep at the lower hem. Luxuriously lined in silky green taffeta, the jacket closes in front with a single hook. The exclusiveness of Jitrois’ work makes this piece a wardrobe game changer, with lasting quality and charm.

Size estimate: M/L


Shoulders: 14 inches

Sleeves: 24 inches

Bust: up to 40 inches

Waist: up to 40 inches

Length: 29 inches

This 1980s era jacket by Jean Claude Jitrois is in excellent vintage condition. Some very minor light markings are evident here and there. This oversized garment echoes a cutaway silhouette popular with women way back in the teens, but is decidedly updated by the generous cut and bold use of dyed green leather and fox fur. Dolman sleeves pleat into the top of the sleeve cap, leaving luxurious fullness to fall beneath the arm.

The leather is expertly pieced and stitched, with geometric style lines providing structure and balance throughout. All openings are edged in dyed fox fur, with articulated lapels at the front neckline. The jacket is fully lined in a silky green taffeta, and closes in the front with a single hook. High-quality vintage pieces like this are yours to live in and love while increasing in value every year. It’s never too soon to start collecting them, as an investment in your wardrobe—and in yourself.

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