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1980s Galanos Couture Black Wool Satin Lapels Feather Coat
American designer James Galanos, who passed away in October 2016, spent his early career gathering technical skills and worthwhile connections. From the beginning, it was evident that the young designer from Philly was keenly interested in the inseparable union between excellent design and material quality. As exclaimed by fashion writer Virginia Pope in a 1954 New York Times article, “It was obvious that the newcomer had some French training. Cut and detail smack of Parisian couture.”
This 1980s era black coat is a prime example of Galanos’ attention to detail and style. Made from a black wool gabardine, the coat is deftly tailored with hand set sleeves that sit softly on the shoulders. Black satin provides a striking textural difference at the lower lapels, with satin turning to the inside to form the interior facing at the center front opening.
Large round buttons are also hand finished and covered in black satin, with hidden hand set snaps providing additional closure between buttons. Of course, the truly delightful detail is provided by the flowing ostrich feather hem, adding overt femininity to the beautiful reserve of this garment. The entire coat is lined with black silk charmeuse, making it feel dreamy against your body. In fact, you may want to wear this coat all by itself.
Size estimate: S/M
Shoulders: 15.5 inches
Sleeves: 23 inches
Bust: 38 inches
Waist: 32 inches
Hips: 40 inches
Length: 37 inches
This 1980s era coat by James Galanos is in excellent condition and serves as an amazing example of his prowess and ability. Made from a black wool gabardine, the coat is constructed with princess line seaming at both the front and back for a tailored fit. The hand set sleeves are augmented with shoulder padding that sits between the fashion fabric and interior lining.
The lower part of the notched lapel is faced with black satin, which wraps to the interior to form the facing along the center front opening. Large circular hand finished buttons provide closure at the center front, with hidden hand set snaps set between them for additional closure.
A textural black ostrich feather hem adds unexpected dimension, transforming it into a feminine coat of cocktail party proportions. High-quality vintage pieces like this are yours to live in and love while increasing in value every year. It’s never too soon to start collecting them, as an investment in your wardrobe—and in yourself.