Vintage Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Japanese Lacquer Ampurdan Silk Cord Belt

An exceptionally rare vintage Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Ampurdan belt, featuring a sculptural black Japanese lacquered wood buckle with a long braided silk cord.

The Ampurdan’s fluid, asymmetrical form is unmistakably Peretti. Smooth and tactile, the polished lacquer buckle contrasts beautifully with the texture and movement of the silk cord, transforming a functional accessory into a striking piece of wearable sculpture. The extended cord wraps around the body and can be tied in multiple ways, allowing the belt to be worn at either the waist or hips.

Peretti had a deep appreciation for traditional Japanese craftsmanship and frequently explored unexpected natural materials alongside the sterling silver for which she is best known. This lacquered wood interpretation reflects her distinctly modern approach: organic in form, minimal in construction and designed to interact directly with the body.

This particular black lacquer and silk version appears to be exceptionally scarce. While sterling silver Ampurdan buckles and other Peretti belt designs occasionally surface through Tiffany, dealers and auction houses, we have not located another example of this exact lacquered wood and silk configuration in readily searchable secondary-market or auction records. This suggests that the version was produced in very limited quantities and makes it particularly desirable for collectors seeking the more unusual and seldom-seen areas of Peretti’s work. Tiffany continues to document the Ampurdan in sterling silver, while secondary-market examples are also predominantly metal versions.

A remarkable and highly collectible example of Elsa Peretti’s exploration of Japanese lacquer, silk and sculptural form.

Designer: Elsa Peretti
House: Tiffany & Co.
Collection: Ampurdan
Materials: Japanese lacquered wood and braided silk cord
Color: Black
Style: Adjustable wraparound belt
Condition: Very good vintage condition with age-appropriate wear

Archival Reference images:
A black lacquer Ampurdan buckle with a silk belt is illustrated on page 146 of My Forty Years at Tiffany, alongside examples of Elsa Peretti’s other silk and lacquer designs.

A related Ampurdan variation, executed in sterling silver with inlaid turquoise and paired with a silk belt, is illustrated on page 194 of the same book.

The accompanying book photographs are included solely as archival references documenting the Ampurdan design.